Project Summary

Cyanotypes of found Victorian needlework, referencing those made/mended/worn by female patients in Victorian asylums.

Description

Asylum Needlework is inspired by my research into the clothing of female pauper patients in Victoria asylums.

Upon admission to the asylum, patients were issued dresses that were of a standard style and material. They were often not substantially different to ordinary working-class clothing, although perhaps rather outdated.

For many, the new attire was warmer, cleaner and of better quality than their own. However, for some, this type of ‘uniform’ was seen as an imposition, and a source of discontent and humiliation.

However, the patients were permitted to adorn their dresses with collars of various styles. These small departures from the norm allowed them to express their individuality and identity, and to regain a small sense of agency.

Much of the clothing in the asylums was made in-house by the patients. It was partly to provide an occupation that was considered by doctors and managers a significant element of ‘moral’ therapy. It also helped the asylums to reduce the operational cost, as it was cheaper than buying goods from external sources. The clothing was standardised because it was easier to manage a limited range of patterns.

The asylums kept careful accounts of production. For instance, a register in the archive of Surrey History Centre, titled ‘Weekly Returns of Needlework’, meticulously listed all the items that were made or mended. This includes items such as aprons, bedgowns, dresses, handkerchiefs and collarettes.

The archive also contains many photographs of female patients in standard asylum dresses but wearing lace collars of varying styles, which may well have been their own handiwork.

Inspired by these findings, I imagined what the patients might have made/mended/worn by producing a series of cyanotypes of recreated and found Victorian needlework.

Asylum Dress is a cyanotype of a dress recreated in the style of standard-issue dresses worn by female pauper patients in Victorian asylums. It is known that patients sometimes tore their clothes as a form of protest, therefore asylum dresses were usually made of robust materials to prevent this. By making Asylum Dress with a thin, delicate material, it subverts the original utilitarian function, and alludes to the physical and emotional vulnerability of the wearer. Dimensions: 171 x 114 cm

Collarettes and Handkerchiefs are cyanotypes of found Victorian needlework. Dimensions: 44 x 44 cm each

Special thanks to Valerie Moon Couture for making the dress for Asylum Dress, and to Guy Paterson for technical support.